Food Court: Granville Moore’s

Posted October 23, 2012 at 12:40pm

Hear ye, hear ye: Court is now back in session.

Our latest case: Atlas District watering hole Granville Moore’s.

Granville Moore's sign
(Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call)

The beloved Belgian beer haven last month decided to make a play for the day-drinking crowd, launching a lunch service that’s almost equally divided between surf and turf while also making available its full complement of fermented beverages.

Those who’ve frequented GM’s in the past will be pleased to find the specialty moules — ranging from the sultry saffron-laced bivalves to the smoked pork- and fennel-packed “kraut” tribute — and double-fried frites that have kept the bar-hopping masses happy for the past half decade.

Chef/owner Teddy Folkman is also flexing other muscles, trotting out a slew of meaty lures that made our mouths water.

Chef Teddy Folkman's bison chili
(Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call)

Folkman’s bison chili is a multilayered masterpiece, weaving together two types of local bison (ground and brisket), four heating elements (fresh serrano and chipotle peppers, dried gaujillo peppers and dark chili powder), stout beer and a bevy of spices (cinnamon, cumin, coriander). The intoxicating brew is punctuated with piquant red onions, soothing sour cream and sharp white cheddar. Folkman said he’s kept the dish in his repertoire since his days at the Reef, noting that his compatriot at Capitol Lounge makes a bean-filled variation to this day.

Folkman said folks have also flipped for his Bison burger, while he prefers the triply decadent grilled cheese (bound by melted cheddar, provolone and goat cheese) and tomatillo soup combo.

Our carnivorous selves must have gotten the best of us because we couldn’t see past the lamb sliders. Instead of going the mini-sandwich route, Folkman foists his succulent shredded lamb shank atop warm flatbread and brightens the savory mounds with mint-spiked yogurt sauce.

Good Doctor sandwich
(Warren Rojas/CQ Roll Call)

Ironically, the Good Doctor may be the death of us. The anytime breakfast-delight piles fluffy scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, gooey cheddar, creamy avocado and smoky chipotle mayo between a brioche bun, each ridiculously rich element bleeding into the next with each fabulous bite.

Folkman said it’s still too early to tell whether the lunch program is attracting newcomers. But he was pleased to see a few familiar faces resurface for an extended visit.

“We did have a table of moms and babies in car seats in the other day. They lived in the neighborhood but hadn’t been in for over 2 years. I thought that was cool. We bought them a round of beers,” he shared.

Folkman plans to continue with the ‘wichcraft. He’s prepping a smoked pork number crowned with crispy chicken skin, roasted tomatoes and cheddar and is champing at the bit to unveil his “Draakstrami” — house-made brisket brined for 10 days in Gulden Draak beer, seasoned with coriander, pepper and caraway and slow-smoked for 10 hours.

Granville Moore’s: 1238 H St. N.E.; 202-399-2546. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, dinner and late-night dining daily, brunch Saturday and Sunday.