DENVER — Here in what used to be called North Denver — then Highlands, then LoHi — there’s a restaurant that does something that feeds the masses in an exemplary way, combining Italian and Mexican influences to produce a savory canoli.  

Lechugas Italian Restaurant and Lounge is a place that has been here through various phases of this neighborhood as reflected in its name changes. North Denver was an Italian enclave, Highlands was Hispanic and LoHi is riding the latest wave of gentrification here in the Mile High City. Lechugas combines those first two influences — the first owners were Italian, the current Hispanic — and spreads the love in its menu.  

The canolis, dense rolls wrapped around sausage and peppers, are available in mild and hot and are a smoking bargain at $2 a piece. More than one is a meal. More than two is a party. More than three feeds the hungry — and then some — who assemble here at 3609 Tejon Street. The sweetness of the roll beautifully complements the spicy sausage and peppers. This is grab-and-go noshing at its best. No surprise that among the vehicles you see coming for lunch and take-out is a hefty dose of contractors’ trucks.  

On the way out after lunch, I asked for a takeout menu. No dice. There’s no website, either. They don’t need it. People who come here know exactly what to order.